taking info you took from other sources and rehashing it out is not the point of this website. Personally, unless you did the work and can show it, you shouldn't be posting an ible. I find commercial products to be easiest as they have everything there and instructions with better pictures to follow than this. if it is in a bag, it cant get dry very well while frozen. I usually roll mine into burlap so the freezer can help dry it by way of evaporation. The best thing to do is to always salt the heck out of it, then roll it up and stick in freezer until you can process it. If you want just the leather, your hide is fine.
Pressure tanning hides skin#
Taxidermy is far more than just slopping a skin on a form. part of a good taxidermist is to find you own processes for skin-fur-feather-scale processing. It is worth it to take taxidermy classes, even if only online. It will be stiff, but then you can work it off the form and continue your glue down and taxidermy process. Once you folded and pinned your fur on the form to verify proper size form, then tie the fur over it to let it dry again. When you get your form, I will use some alcohol to wet the skin so I can work it, though not wet- soaking. You want to use the alum-borax to process the skin to keep it from rotting or getting eaten by bugs. When you get it processed, I usually put mine on a frame and stretch them to dry hard. Work it by experimentation, make a bowls worth and test it, if it is way to much, then cut back a little the next batch you make. Borax is by the box but a box will be way more than enough for raccoons, possums, fox's ect. Doing the alum way, I buy the items by the pound. no two animals will have the same square inches. You cant figure out down to the ounce as to how much you need. it will be stiff as cardboard, but with taxadermy, it doesnt matter. If your just going to process it and then put it over a mount, you can treat it and then let it dry. Taxidermy furs dont need to be clothing quality. This helps your finished hide remain flexible and soft. From time to time, remove the pelt from the board and stretch it vigorously in all directions. Keep doing this until the pelt is soft and supple. Rub a little neatsfoot oil into the the inside of the pelt. Pin the slightly damp pelt to the board, fur side down. Hang the pelt up and leave it until it is nearly dry. Scrape off the paste and rinse the pelt repeatedly under running water until there is no trace of Borax. Repeat this procedure three more times, leaving the last coating in place for three to four days. Leave the paste on the skin until the next day, then scrape it off and apply another coating. Put on rubber gloves and work the paste with your fingers, rubbing it firmly into the skin. Mix the paste well to remove any lumps.Coat the inside of the pelt with the Borax paste, using a knife to spread it to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Now you rinse the pelt in warm water and squese the water out DO NOT WRING THE PELT Use a stick or somthing made from wood to stir the skin around in the solution. Doing this cleans the skin so it will accept the tanning better. For greasy skins, adding a tablespoon of dishwashing soap per gallon of water may help clean the skin. When the skin is almost soft, put it in lukewarm water containing an ounce of baking soda or Borax per gallon. Take care not to injure the true skin or expose the hair roots, especially on thin skins like squirrel and rabbit. All dried skins have a shiny tight layer of tissue that must be broken up and entirely removed this can be done by alternately scraping and soaking the hide. When the skin begins to soften, lay it on a smooth board and begin working over the flesh side to break up the adhering tissue and fat. Soaking time depends upon the condition of the skin some skins require only about two hours while others need a much longer time. While a skin must be soaked until soft, do not allow it to stay wet longer than necessary because the hair may start to slip. Never use a metal container, as the salt and tanning chemicals can react with the metal. Use a 5 gallon plastic garbage can for all soaking and tanning processes. Soak the skin in several changes of cool water.
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